Archive for January, 2014

City Guide: Alaçati

This week I’m following up on last week’s photo diary of Alaçati with my tips on the best restaurants, shops, and things to do. Part of Alaçati’s charm is that it’s still a Turkish (vs. international) resort town, but going somewhere where English speaking is limited might seem intimidating. The people are incredibly friendly and gracious, so not to worry. See below for everything from the dining establishments you don’t want to miss to where to score some beautiful “souvenirs” to bring home.

IN THREE WORDS: charming, romantic, undiscovered

WHERE TO STAY:  Beyevi Hotel

WHAT TO DO: watch windsurfing at the port, head to a beach to sunbathe alongside aqua waters, spend a leisurely afternoon at a street cafe, hunt for treasures in the antique stores

DON’T LEAVE WITHOUT: making the drive to Ephesus and sampling wines at Urla Sarapcilik vineyard

WHERE TO EAT: Asma Yaprağı for home-style Turkish food in a garden setting; Barbun for one of the most impressive fine dining experiences of your life; Köşe Kahve or Orto Kahve on the main street for an afternoon coffee and treat; Fahri’nin Yeri at the port for local seafood

FOOD TO TRY: lemon-soaked mussels from the street carts, Turkish coffee, baklava, fried whole fish, any aubergine meze, roasted lamb, the fabulous breakfast spread

BEST PLACE FOR A DRINK: The chic garden at Yaya Restaurant

WHERE TO SHOP: Yastık by Rıfat Özbek for unique luxury pillows, Atmospheres for resort wear, Fash for beachwear, Zeytik V.S. for olive oils and homemade jams, antique stores in the Haci Memiş area of town, Lisa Corti for colorful textiles, and a tiny storefront (can’t recall the name!) on Kemalpaşa Caddesi (the main street) for Turkish towels

HOW TO GET AROUND: The village is pedestrian only. But be sure to rent a car to explore the Çeşme peninsula and make a day trip to Ephesus. The one-hour highway drive from the Izmir airport is easy once you figure out the signs.

GOOD TO KNOW: The village’s emerging boutique hotels and restaurants are expensive but extremely high quality. You get what you pay for and more.

WHAT TO PACK: Breezy linen pants and tanks for day, pretty dresses for night and flat sandals for night

WHAT TO BRING HOME: striped Turkish towels, a colorful pillow, olive oil soap

WHEN TO GO: High season is summer. We loved the quieter pace in early September.

Shades of Gray

Ralph Lauren turtleneck | Jonathan Saunders skirt (similar here/here) | Via Spiga boots (similar) | vintage hat

Gray skies, gray outfit. So it goes. I wear pants 99% of the time in winter, so it’s good to break from my routine with a skirt and tights every once in a while. This cashmere turtleneck is one of those pieces in my closet I often wear once a week–it’s so, so versatile and cozy for cold days. I’m kind of obsessed with turtlenecks; I know people love them or hate them, but they’re my favorite. And these classic black riding boots have been a winter staple of mine for about four years. They’re due for a little clean and shine, but are still going strong.

Spanish Chopped Salad

We’ve been cleaning house. Big time. It’s a stereotypical January thing to do, I guess, but this year I’m being ruthless about it. I literally pulled everything out of every cabinet in our kitchen last weekend, reduced the contents to just the items we (a) use frequently or (b) want to use more often, and as for the rest, I’m either storing it (ice cream maker), gifting it (extra glassware), or giving it away (odds and ends). Besides the new luxury of uncrowded, well-organized cabinets and drawers, I finally carved out a place for all my cookbooks so they’re within easy reach. The result: Falling in love with new recipes from books I’ve owned for ages but rarely used, like this Spanish Chopped Salad from It’s All Good. The ingredients are simple but important for the full sweet, smoky flavor–hunt down the piquillo peppers and make sure to use smoked paprika, not the regular kind.

Spanish Chopped Salad

2 cans chickpeas, drained and rinsed
1 tablespoon of olive oil
1 teaspoon of smoked paprika
A pinch of coarse sea salt
1 head of red-leaf lettuce, torn
2 scallions, finely sliced
4 jarred roasted Spanish piquillo peppers, thinly sliced
2 5-ounce cans of good-quality tuna packed in olive oil, oil drained but saved
1 tablespoon of parsley, chopped
1 avocado, sliced

For the dressing
2 tablespoons of raw honey
1/4 cup sherry vinegar
2 tablespoons of oil from the cans of tuna
1/4 cup of olive oil
Coarse sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Preheat oven to 425F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. In a bowl, toss the chickpeas with the olive oil and paprika. Spread the chickpeas evenly on the prepared baking sheet, sprinkle with salt, and roast 20-30 minutes. They should be dark brown and crunchy. To make the dressing, combine the honey, vinegar, and tuna oil in a small food processor and blend to combine. Add the olive oil and blend again. Season with the salt and pepper. To serve, pile lettuce onto plates, then top with the tuna, chickpeas, peppers, and scallions. Spoon a bit of dressing over the salad. Finish with avocado slices and parsley.

Store the extra dressing in a small jar in the fridge and keep the extra toppings in individual containers for an easy workday lunch.

Recipe adapted from It’s All Good

Entertaining Essentials

New year, new get-togethers to plan! For the record, I vow to entertain more this year. Somehow I let my hostessing slip in 2013…never had that big summer bash, nor the weekend girls’ brunch, not even our annual holiday party. Instead of getting bogged down with the prospect of coordinating schedules and planning a few large gatherings, I’m committing myself to more frequent, small-group entertaining. Even more informal dinners with our go-to group of friends, more girls-only fun, more super casual one-on-ones. Who says entertaining is about tabletop decor, menus, and weeks-in-advance planning anyway? How about a nice bottle of wine and a simple but thoughtful cheeseboard? Or a big pot of tortilla soup and the guys’ sports game? That’s not to say that even the simplest hosting can’t use a dose of (effortless) style. A few chic essentials I’ve collected over time to easily spice up entertaining duty…

Salad Servers
All have been gifts, which is perfect for someone who loves salads as much as me! These add a special touch to a glass or white salad bowl, whatever you have on hand.
Servingware
Some of my favorites, you can’t go wrong with everyday classics in wood, porcelain, and glass.
Linen Napkins
The most fundamental way to step up your meal-time style. Whether you prefer solid standbys or a dose of pattern, having a few options to switch things up is good.
Votive Holders
My favorite way to add ambiance. Buy unscented votive candles in bulk, drop them into pretty holders, and light them up just as guests arrive.

Alacati, Turkey

As the winter winds howl, December’s snowfall sits unmelted, and most of our country experiences bitterly cold temperatures, I can’t help but dream of being in a much different, warmer place. It seemed like a perfect time to share more photos from our fall trip to Turkey, to give you and me both a needed mental escape back to the sun-drenched days of summertime.

In the tiny Turkish village of Alaçatı, we found serenity and charm among the town’s blue-shuttered, stone houses, abundant slow-food restaurants, and nearby turquoise waters. Discovering this gem on the Çeşme peninsula was a true delight–a place utterly romantic, storybook picturesque, and absent of foreign tourists. While it’s starting to gain some bits of international press, the town remains primarily a weekend and summer destination for well-heeled Turkish citizens. Which means it’s not flooded by tourists, and English speakers are few and far between. But it’s exactly because of this that we experienced the extra thrill of exploring sights, sounds, and smells of a new place without the benefit of much conversation to guide us.

We mostly spent our days winding through Alaçatı’s maze of cobblestoned streets, finding well-appointed cafés and upscale textile storefronts on the main street, sleepy antique shops farther in, lovely courtyard restaurants tucked into side streets, and vendors selling lemon-soaked mussels here and there. I had read that Alaçatı hotels are famed for delicious breakfast spreads, and our mornings at the Beyevi did not disappoint, with honey and clotted cream, tomatoes, olives, local cheeses, figs, and freshly baked breads. In fact, our epicurean experience here was the most memorable of our two-week Mediterranean trip. This tiny town is somewhat of a foodie Mecca, boasting an abundance of talented chefs cooking both traditional and modern takes on Turkish cuisine. Some favorites: At the locavore restaurant Barbun, we were treated to seven courses of petite, elegantly prepared dishes; at the laid-back Asma Yaprağı, we selected a variety of dishes from a family-style spread laid out right in the small kitchen.

A few afternoons we wandered further afield, outside the village’s pedestrian streets, where we checked out the town’s port. This is Alaçatı’s main attraction and frequented by an international crowd of experienced and amateur windsurfers. We drove through nearby Çeşme Town, known for its castle, on our way to a remote white beach flanked by light aqua waters. And we made the 90-minute road trip to the splendid ruins of Ephesus.

Of all the wonderful places we’ve been, Alaçatı has a certain indescribable magic to it—something you can’t quite put into words and can only partially relay through photos. It captured a special place in my heart with a deep feeling.  But let’s just say that Alaçatı’s relaxed vibe means you can happily lose track of time and spend weeks enjoying a simple but beautiful life here. It’s a place I dream of returning to one day…

Creamy Polenta with Roasted Root Vegetables

This time of year, everyone seems to be making lists of resolutions for the year ahead. I’m not a fan of setting goals like eating less sugar, working out more, getting organized, etc. To me a new year isn’t about resolving to fix things or do things differently, but 365 more days to become a better me. To experience growth, change, love, challenges, new places, and friendship; to enjoy the things that make me happy; and to allow all of it to shape my lifestyle and become part of who I am. Focusing on the things that make me happy might resemble others’ resolutions…eating healthy every day (I actually really, really like vegetables), doing more hot yoga (I like to sweat), cleaning out more clutter (I’m still on a less-is-more kick), or reading more (I feel smarter when I do). But it might simply mean enjoying a big bowl of creamy polenta topped with roasted root vegetables and a generous glass of red wine by the fire, because it’s January, it’s single-digit cold, and that makes me happy, too!

Whatever your aspirations for 2014, I hope you can find room in the next 365 days (preferably sooner) to enjoy this delicious little dish. It’s one part healthy, one part indulgent–and that’s how I prefer life after all. Make a double batch of the root vegetables, and use them on top of salad greens for a healthy weekday lunch. It’s equally delicious and comforting, in a very good-for-you way.

Creamy Polenta with Herbs de Provence Roasted Root Vegetables

2 small yellow onions, peeled and cut crosswise into rings
2 large carrots, halved lengthwise, cut into pieces
2 large parsnips, halved lengthwise, cut into pieces
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
3/4 teaspoon herbes de Provence
3/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
4 cups water
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 cup yellow cornmeal
½ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese, plus extra for serving
1-3 tablespoons crème fraiche
Coarse salt, for serving (optional)

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. Combine the onions, carrots and parsnips in a large bowl. Add the oil, herbes de Provence, salt and pepper; toss to coat evenly. Scatter the vegetables evenly in a large nonstick baking pan and roast for 20 minutes. Turn the vegetables and roast until tender and beginning to brown, another 15 to 20 minutes. While the vegetables are roasting, bring 4 cups of water to a boil in a pot over medium-high heat; add the salt. Reduce the heat to low and slowly add the cornmeal, whisking constantly. Set aside the whisk and switch to a wooden spoon; continue stirring constantly as the polenta simmers for 10 minutes, until thick. (Your arm should get tired!) Remove the polenta from the heat, stir in the Parmesan and crème fraiche. Add salt to taste. Immediately spoon the polenta into shallow bowls, top with the roasted root vegetables, and sprinkle with extra Parmesan cheese.